源珍潤餅捲

The filling goes in to order: cabbage first marinated in curry and cooked through, carrying a faint turmeric-tinted savouriness, then layered with red-yeast pork, strips of pressed tofu, crisp egg floss, dried radish and bean sprouts, dusted with peanut powder and rolled into two thicknesses of skin. The first bite is the chew of the wrapper, then the sweetness of the cabbage against the tang of the red-yeast pork — sweet and savoury stacked several layers deep. Besides the original there is a wasabi version, its heat kept in the background, worth a try if you want something lighter. One Google reviewer wrote, "Generous portion, the cabbage marinated in curry is just right, never too strong" — that balance is the point.

The stall stands on Minzhi Street, a red banner with white lettering hung under a metal awning, the fillings lined up compartment by compartment in a glass case with "60 dollars a roll" painted straight onto it in red. It opens at three in the afternoon and runs until eight, closed Saturdays and Sundays. Everything is rolled on the spot, so a crowd means standing and waiting; if you're pressed for time, call ahead and pick it up. Older regulars buy three at once for dinner, while others eat theirs right there at the small table beside the stall with a drink.