利隆餅店

An old pastry stall in a side alley of Dongmen Market, now in its third generation, with people lining up the instant it opens each day. The jiucai-hezi (chive pockets) have thin skins and generous filling; the cabbage pastry is lightly sweet and never heavy; the beef and pork xian-bing (pan-fried meat pies) are griddled to a crisp crust, and the scallion pancake is another frequently requested item.

Every day they also make a limited run of fully vegan red-bean pastries, which often sell out as soon as they hit the counter. There's barely any seating — most people queue and take away; call ahead if you want the full spread.