品先蚵仔煎

The signature oyster omelette comes packed with plump oysters. Beaten egg folds around leafy greens and hits the griddle until the edges set into a crisp, frilled brown skirt, then the whole thing is finished with a ladle of amber sweet-chilli sauce. The batter holds its shape without turning sloppy — as one Google review has it, "cooked really well, not soft and runny, and loaded with filling." Beyond the griddle, the same oysters appear three more ways: oyster soup in a clear broth of shredded ginger and spring onion that lets the sweetness of the shellfish carry; oyster rice vermicelli under a full layer of glossy oysters and basil; and crisp-fried oysters in a light batter, served alongside fried basil leaves.

The shop is tucked into Houliao Lane rather than sitting on Lugang's main old-street drag. A yellow standing sign in blue lettering advertises the oyster omelette and oyster soup, with an "air-conditioned" placard beside it. The kitchen is open to the lane, griddle facing the street; the dining area is at the back, wooden tables with red and blue stools and a ceiling fan turning overhead, mostly filled with local regulars. Closed Tuesdays, otherwise 10am to 6pm daily. An oyster omelette with a bowl of oyster soup is the natural pairing; with a group, add a plate of fried oysters to share.